Edinburgh - Scotland's Historic City of Stone from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide Flower Stand in Edinburgh Edinburgh, Scotland has long been historically overshadowed by London, England, but is certainly equally worth a visit. While a much smaller city than London, Edinburgh more than compensates for its lower status on the world stage, with its charm, intimacy, less frenetic pace, incredible architecture and its delightful, soft-spoken citizens. Above all, Edinburgh possesses an atmosphere that is totally unique; it really is unlike anywhere else in terms of the quiet grandeur and the peaceful, very civilized ambience that seems to fill the air. The famous Edinburgh Castle seems to almost brood over the city from its perch atop a volcanically formed basalt crag. Though today there is nothing foreboding about this, and Edinburgh stretches for mile beyond, the castle formed the original city and is still the centre of many of the traditions that are such a vital part of this city and Scotland as a whole. The castle adds to the incredible sense of history that pervades everything here. It has witnessed so much in terms of Scotland’s tumultuous but always proud saga. Looking up to the castle, or looking down from its ramparts over the beautiful city it’s so easy to imagine the various eras of the past 800 years that the castle has witnessed. Edinburgh Castle sets the stage for an exceptional city. Edinburgh is of appeal to all, be it the historian, the architecture lover, arts fan, or even the addicted shopper. It is perfect for families, children will learn much from all the living history. Edinburgh is also a romantic retreat, where hours can be spent walking the fine streets, browsing at antiques and artifacts or dining in one of the city’s many fine eateries. HISTORY It’s not surprising that the origins of Edinburgh evolved around the castle. This huge high cliff or crag was formed from volcanic basalt and is vertical on three sides. Its natural defense capabilities attracted settlement from as early as 850BC. In the sixth century a tribe from across the border in Northumberland captured the area of Lothian (the county in which Edinburgh stands.) A fortress known as Dun Eadain was built on top of the rock. The tribe was the Angles, and Dun Eadain served as the southern outpost of what was to become Scotland. Eventually the frontier with England moved south to the River Tweed, but Edinburgh was still raided by the English seven times. By the 11th century a community began to develop at the base of the castle’s crag and the city quickly grew. In 1124 King David I founded Holyrood Abbey. In 1450, in the tradition of the times, the city was walled. Because of the restricted space the inhabitants were forced to build tenement style dwellings that rose 12 storeys. In 1513 the Scots under James IV suffered a humiliating defeat at the hands of the English. The king was killed along with 10,000 of his soldiers. The English tried to force the unity between the two countries that they had long sought to rule by forcing the daughter of the new king James V, to marry Edward, the son of England’s Henry VIII. The daughter was Mary, later to become Mary Queen of Scots. To avoid the marriage she was sent in exile as a very young child to France. She married the French crown prince (Dauphin). She returned to Scotland a widow, remarried twice, but was eventually executed by the English because of her adherence to Catholicism and the perception that she was a threat to the security of England’s Elizabeth I. At the same time Scotland was increasingly attracted to Protestantism, but not the English version, which they saw as washed-down Catholicism. The Scottish version was a Calvinistic version as perpetuated by John Knox the Scottish theologian. With the death of Elizabeth I, England was without an heir to the throne. The closest in line was James VI of Scotland who moved to London to become James I of England. This was the beginning of the House of Stuart, Britain’s Scottish monarchs. Despite their inherent Scottish links and name, the Stuarts quickly lost interest in affairs and events north of the border. When Charles I tried to subject the Scots to the religious practice of episcopacy (the rule of bishops as practiced in the Anglican church) there was more resentment, persecution and turmoil. The end result was the dominance of the Presbyterian religion in Scotland, with Edinburgh as a hub. After the Act of Union in 1701, when Scotland was politically absorbed into Britain, Edinburgh’s political importance was further reduced. However, culturally and economically the city boomed. To house the increasing population the city was expanded to the north. The Old and New Towns came into being. This was the era when so many of the city’s fine Georgian buildings were constructed. Edinburgh became quite anglicized and tried to distance itself from the rebellions of previous times. In the 1800s the population further exploded, caused largely by a large influx of refugees from Ireland’s potato famines. The tenements of the Old Town were filled with these new citizens of Edinburgh. The Irish populace contributed much to the culture of the city and helped make Edinburgh a little less stodgy. Edinburgh’s great pub and nightlife scene probably emanates from the Irish influx also at least partially so. Perhaps Edinburgh’s most famous citizen actor Sean Connery - is of Irish heritage. Many of the tenement dwellers were relocated in the so-called ‘slum clearance’ projects that took place in the years following World War II. These government owned housing estates became notorious, and were even the focus of the movie ‘Trainspotting.’ In recent years much has being done to improve conditions in these neighbourhoods. In the 20th Century with the advent of mass tourism, Edinburgh has become increasingly popular and prominent. The famous Edinburgh International Festival and the Edinburgh Fringe Festival have helped put this great city on the world map. With the referendum of 1997, which once again brought a Scottish parliament back to the city, Edinburgh is becoming increasingly important politically after centuries of displacement. The new Parliament Buildings across from The Palace of Holyrood House are controversial because of their cost, but promise to be spectacular. CLIMATE Considering how north Edinburgh is it is actually remarkably temperate. The warming trends of the Gulf Stream certainly moderate the temperature in a city that is on the same latitude as Moscow and well north of the most populated areas of Canada. The best way to describe the weather is ‘changeable’ it can be warm and sunny one day, and cold and wet the next. However Edinburgh is dryer than much of the rest of the country. Summer days experience average highs of around 18 degrees Celsius. Edinburgh under blue skies and warm temperatures is delightful. The heaviest rainfall also occurs in the summer, but it seldom rains for days at a time. So it is best to bring clothing for sunshine and some sweaters and rain gear. Winters often bring snow, but by no means all the time. The wind is bitter so bring warm clothing and dress in layers. But the temperature rarely goes below freezing for very long, and the brisk air can be very invigorating. TRANSPORTATION Edinburgh is well connected to the rest of the UK by an extensive rail network. London and other major cities in England are reached in hours. Waverley Station is a hub for Scottish rail travel. Britain’s National Express Coach Lines also serve the city through their extensive network. Edinburgh International Airport is becoming increasingly busy. It is linked to the rest of the world through connections from London and other major European cities. It is also served by charter flights from the USA and Canada during the summer months. ACCOMMODATIONS Edinburgh has a wide selection of accommodations ranging from high-end international hotels to simple private hotels. Bed and Breakfast is particularly popular here and there are also some reasonably priced hostels. It is very important to book accommodations in advance for such a popular destination. This is particularly crucial during festival season the last two weeks of August and the first week in September. For a full list of accommodations in the Edinburgh area please click here. FEATURED ATTRACTIONS At the Arts Festival During the last two weeks of August and the first week of September, the arts world is focused on Edinburgh. Basically three separate events take place, but they are all held simultaneously. The Edinburgh Festival has evolved into one of, if not the biggest, arts festivals anywhere. This consists of drama, dance, opera and music held at various venues throughout the city. The Edinburgh Fringe Festival is a noteworthy comedy and avant-garde festival much less formal than the Edinburgh Festival. Many of the performances are by student theatre companies and by amateurs; many of Britain’s future comics start here. This is now the largest festival of its kind in the world. The Edinburgh Military Tattoo is an excellent showcase of military music and marching formation. It is held on the Esplanade of Edinburgh Castle. The colourfully clad service personal perform a full range of music, including of course, many soulful laments on Scotland’s national instrument the bagpipes. For animal lovers the drills performed by the incredibly trained military service dogs will be memorable. Edinburgh Castle has all the elements of the classic European castle. It is such a dominant feature of the Edinburgh landscape, that when anybody thinks of Edinburgh, the image of its castle is always prevalent. Its incredible strategic advantages including a vantage point of almost 100 miles - were the reason for the original habitation of Edinburgh (see History). The castle effectively reflects over eight centuries of Scotland’s history. From the top of its ramparts to the dungeons deep within the bowels of the structure, a visit here will provide the ultimate castle experience. The oldest part of the castle that can still be seen is the Chapel of St. Margaret, which dates from the 12th Century though the site has been a castle for much longer than that. Several different military regiments have museums in the castle. The Stone of Destiny (also known as the Stone of Scone) is among the highlights of things to see at the castle. This sandstone footrest has formed a vital part of the coronation of many of England and Scotland’s monarchs. For hundreds of years it was placed under the coronation throne in London’s Westminster Abbey. In the early 1950s it was stolen by Scottish nationalists, but then returned to London. As a gesture to the strong and justified sentiments of Scottish diversity, the stone has now been officially returned to Scotland and has a new home in the castle. Mons Meg a gargantuan 500-year old siege cannon will particularly impress youngsters visiting the castle. It is also possible to see the Scottish Crown Jewels and see the room where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the future James I of England. The Royal Mile is considered to be one of the most intriguing neighbourhoods anywhere. It runs downhill from the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The western end of the Royal Mile commands wonderful views of the Firth of Forth (the river mouth north of Edinburgh) and the Old and New Town parts of the city. The Royal Mile actually consists of four streets that consist of closes, pends and wynds (entrances, arched gateways and lanes) and one could spend days exploring these, dodging in and out of the various nooks and crannies. Scottish Tartan Although the Royal Mile has its fair share of touristy souvenir stores, it still abounds with fascinating antique shops and galleries, and such interesting features as bagpipe manufacturers, kilt makers, shortbread purveyors and weavers of tartans and tweeds. The architecture is remarkable, and includes tenement style, multi-floored apartment buildings known as lands that date from the 15th Century. Not to be missed are the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre, Deacon Brodie’s Tavern and St. Giles Cathedral with its imposing exterior and colourful stained glass. Edinburgh is known for its Georgian buildings. With the exception of Dublin, Ireland, no other city has such a plethora of such finely preserved Georgian homes and other Georgian edifices. The Georgian style has been widely imitated on a worldwide basis, ever since its original inception, but nothing comes close to the original form. In Edinburgh the most remarkable example is Charlotte Square designed in 1791 by noted architect Robert Adam. The Georgian House at number seven has been totally restored both externally and internally. Here visitors can see what life was like for Edinburgh’s privileged at the end of the 18th Century. The Georgian House was originally home to John Lamont, chief of the Lamont clan. Original artworks, fine period furniture and original English china grace the home, and visitors can tour the wine cellar and the kitchens. Everything is authentic, and the Georgian House has the ability to truly evoke the period it represents much more than the vast majority of historical attractions. Second only to Edinburgh Castle in terms of historical importance, the Palace of Holyroodhouse (more casually known as Holyrood House) and the adjacent Holyrood Abbey also form a vital link to Edinburgh’s past. King David I of Scotland founded Holyrood Abbey in 1128. The abbey had a hostel attached to it, and this formed the framework for the palace, which was founded in 1500. Holyrood House is noted for its beautiful wrought ironwork, magnificent gardens, antiques, fine fountains and ornamental frescoed and plastered ceilings. It was here that Mary Queen of Scot’s secretary Rizzio was murdered by Mary’s jealous second husband Lord Darnley. Visitors can tour the bedroom where this took place. It was also here that Mary debated the virtues of her precious Catholic faith with Presbyterian theologian John Knox. The historical ambience here is heavy, and it’s amazing to reflect on the events that transpired in this place. Feeding Ducks on the Lake The grounds behind the palace form Holyrood Park a veritable wilderness in the heart of the city. Consisting of 260 hectares of moorland, fields and small lochs (lakes), the park provides a true respite from the busy streets of the city. Another notable and prominent sight in the park is the 251m high extinct volcano known as Arthur’s Seat. The views from here are even better than those afforded from the castle. Duddlingstone Loch is natural, has a bird sanctuary and even houses a raft of otters. For many, no visit to a major city is complete without sampling a museum or art gallery of some sort. For lovers of art Edinburgh has much to offer - all of the historical attractions contain furniture and artwork that is priceless. For those who prefer a more focused art collection, the National Gallery of Scotland will be a worthwhile detour. The gallery is housed in an attractive classical building dating from 1850. The National Gallery has a wide-ranging collection including excellent works of Italian renaissance artists such as Raphael, and those of the Dutch-Flemish school including Van Dyke and Rembrandt. Landscapes include some fine American works and those of the legendary British artists Constable and Turner. A wing of the gallery is devoted to the work of Scottish artists, and this is one of the most popular sections. Many of Edinburgh’s features are easily recognisable in the displayed paintings.